Manual Brakes and NiCopp lines

After seeing some of the brake booster delete kits I stated weighing the option.  I was really interested in the Chase Bays kit, because its one of the more widely used kits in the 240sx world.  However after some research I decided that running a single circuit master cylinder for brakes wasn't something that I would do.  So I decided I would make my own, along with a pedal with an increased leverage ratio to hopefully make my manual brake conversion more liveable.  The end goal is a firm pedal with good modulation, hopefully without having to go too aggressive on the brake pad compound.

Made two of the master cylinder adapter plates in the CNC with some assistance, it was pretty exciting to push that green button after the program was made.

Facing my new brake pedal pivot to length in the lathe.

Brake pedal with a new pivot added 1" below the factory pivot

We added another hole in the brake bracket as well to keep the same pedal height, keeping the brake push rod going out the same hole in the firewall.

Finished modified pedal on the bottom, the finished product should have about a 5.5:1 pedal ratio in place of the stock 4:1 for boosted brakes.  That places my modified pedal right about in the middle of standard car manual brake pedals (5-6:1 ratio).

My super fancy brake push rod.  I might make something a little prettier without the length adjustment after some testing.

I added some stainless steel M8 thread inserts into the master cylinder adapter to make it easier to remove the master cylinder so I can make brake rod adjustments without too much drama while setting things up.

For the brake lines I ran all new.  I chose NiCopp for the corrosion resistance and formability.  NiCopp lines are supposed to combine the corrosion resistance of stainless with easier forming than mild steel.  Its a Nickel, Copper alloy, and somehow you gain resistance to fatigue and work hardening from the Nickel in the alloy over plain Copper (which is a no no in automotive braking systems).  The lines in a 240 are 3/16" OD with M10 x 1.0 inverted flare fittings.  The NiCopp bent surprisingly easy, I used a basic bend tool and some bend pliers for some of the tighter stuff and occasionally a 3/8 socket.

The factory master cylinder doesn't have a boot since it typically goes on the front of a brake booster.  Since its going to be poking through the firewall right above my feet now it probably should have one.

To mount the brake lines to the firewall I'm using some Earl's aluminum line clamps.  I drilled the threads out of a couple so that I could run the bolt through to some closed end rivnuts I installed into the firewall.

I equally spaced two #10-32 rivnuts into the firewall just below the pinch seam for a nice low profile clean place to run the brake lines.

Nice, new, shiny NiCopp brake lines all bent up.

Paint the engine bay and bedline the wheel wells.

As I've been going through this project I've been getting more and more particular.  I always like to do things right, but after a project takes as long as this one has, I want everything I've touched thus far to be as good as I can get it.  I pulled the entire front end apart as far as it would go.

Sent the front cross member and tension rod bracket out for powder coat, went with a gloss jdm charcoal

Wrapped it up in its own cocoon

I did two coats of a 2k high build primer, if I were to do it again, I would have done 3 or 4, I expected the paint to be thicker and hide better, but all and all it looks pretty decent for an engine bay.

I used a 2k semi gloss black urethane paint for my paint for good durability.

Fix that Rust

After finding the rust in the rails I took a long break from the project (hence no updates).  Needed to decide if the project was still worth it and was contemplating a new shell.  Long story short, I decided to stay the course. It was a lot of work.  I've been learning to TIG weld through this build so the welds are far from perfect asthetically, but I expect them  to hold well.

The passenger side was the worst by far, apparently rust stated underneath the undercoating on the firewall along with the frame rail and where moisture gets trapped at the brake line holder

I welded in spots to give the patch panel some extra bite along with welding around the perimiter

Passenger side after completion

On the drivers side I tried to make the repair more flush with less overlap

While I was welding things, I made saddle gussets for my front "power brace"

Mcleod Mag Force Twin Disc Clutch Install

The McLeod Mag Force Twin is a seriously beautiful piece, its really sad that it has to be buried behind a bellhousing.  I bought it to run it though so it has to go in.  This being a twin its a little different from other clutch installations I have experienced. 

First you pop off the pressure plate to see the ceramic pucked solid hub disc that's backed up by a floating pin drive center disc.  I chose the floating center disc based on recommendations that it would drag less as the clutch begins to wear, allowing me a slightly longer interval for re-shimming the clutch.

On top of the drive pins there are shim stacks calibrated from the factory for proper finger height on the clutch diaphragm.  As the clutch wears, shims will be removed until either one of the plates are out of spec or the clutch is worn or damaged to the point where it needs to go back to McLeod for a full rebuild.

I have the strapped pressure plate to keep some of the noise down.

 

I'm using ARP pro series 12pt flywheel bolts to protect the investment p/n 330-2802

Using the standard clutch alignment tool this is all the further the transmission would engage, I thought I could get away with it, but I no matter what I tried I couldn't get it any closer than the last inch.  Finally I broke down and bought the Quarter Master 1-5/32" x 26 spline alignment tool.  Its under $50 and well worth it to just go ahead and get it if you're going to install a multi-plate clutch.

Engine Bay Clean Up

Working on a project there are always things that pop up and catch you attention.  This is one of them.

Excuse the blurry picture, but you get the idea.  There was rust in the former home of the battery tray, an intercooler pipe hole that's too small and in the wrong location for the intake, holes from drilled spot welds, and provisions for a washer fluid tank that's been out of the car for nearly 10 years now.  My first problem was no press brake to bend the radius on the panel.  So I made a quick and dirty rail for the hydraulic press at work.

I used this in conjunction with a piece of 1-1/4" round stock to make a nice radiused corner.  Then used my handy dandy card board templates to make my patch panel out of 22ga sheet metal, the same thickness as the original piece.

After making the panel I cleco pinned and butt weld clamped it in place for weld.

Also, I patched some strut tower rust that I had previously repaired with bondo and stitch welded the front of the car.  I figured that with the extra torque the LS will provide the front of this car will need all the help it can get.  The first steps to stitch welding are scraping out the seam sealer, then wire brush the remaining sealer out.
 

Stitch welding is a serious pain, no matter how much you think you've thoroughly cleaned all the bits of rust and seam sealer there will still be some in there.  Every time you hit some seam sealer, dirt or rust and pull it into the puddle it burns and makes the puddle pop.  You'll have a good run for a few stitches then a few that are terrible where you keep cleaning and trying to get a good weld.

A much easier part was making at attaching subframe rail caps.  I plasma cut them then used the dimple die to make the holes look clean and tig welded them in place.

The next step will be to repair some rust holes I discovered in the frame rails (frail rails)

All Dressed Up With No Where to Go

So, I'm finally getting back in the swing of working on the car and updating the blog.  I had a busy summer and fall with long work hours, mountain biking and spending time with the family. I visited Panacea Powder Coating again and had them coat my timing cover and valve covers.  I finally settled on a hammertone bronze color similar to my rims for the parts.

While installing the timing cover I installed the ATI Super Damper.  I chose ATI p/n 917277, It's a 10% under drive without an air conditioning pulley and SFI approval.  No need for A/C since I removed the evaporator from under the dash along with the rest of the system.  I wanted an under drive and the ATI seemed to be the best insurance for my engine while providing under drive.

I've also added -8 AN heater fittings to the water pump.  The original stainless steel fittings were pretty difficult to remove.  I tried twisting them with a pipe wrench, wishful thinking that they might just forcefully twist out, but no luck there.  I ended up up supporting them with a board to protect the waterpump, smashing in one side with a chisel to collapse it, taking pressure off the sides then they popped right out.  After they came out it was just a matter of tapping the holes they're already the correct size, the small side with a 3/8 npt and the larger with a 1/2 npt.