tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35887027583514867652024-03-08T07:16:20.180-08:00LS1 240SXD-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-158926334052707232014-03-11T21:23:00.003-07:002014-03-11T21:23:59.724-07:00<span style="color: #999999;">Plumbing up the fuel system was pretty uneventful. One of my first
steps was to clean the dirty injectors that had been sitting for a
couple years at this point. I built a small injector driver tool with a
project box from Radio Shack, momentary switch, led (indicator light),
and an injector clip.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">It
was a good thing I did this, a couple injectors wouldn't open at all
until soaked. I had them all consistently working by the end. I would
connect a neoprene rubber vacuum plug with a small hole poked in it for
the straw on some carb cleaner, pressurize with the cleaner, then click
the button until I had good, clear flow and a decent spray pattern.
Nothing scientific, just went until each one looked like the last.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">The
next step, I installed up the Holley Fuel rails PN # 534-210. They
were one of the more economical, high quality options with o-ring
fittings (vs pipe threads) and a complete set of fittings.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">One
of the tougher parts was deciding where to put the filter pressure
regulator unit. I was considering placing it above the subframe like
Pstl_Pete's LS3 hatch build, but I couldn't help but wonder what will
happen if I get traction and break one of the still stock axles, I would
rather just replace a hose than the whole unit, and the rear subframe
and axles will be a later project. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">I
ran the line just beneath the brake line with some cushion clamps and
covered the line in fire sleeve to try to protect the rail from the -6
stainless steel line.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">I
bought this Koul Tools -6 assembly tool towards the end of making the
-6 lines after struggling to put a few fittings on, I always have
struggled with the smaller sizes. I wish I would have bought it sooner,
it made it so much easier. It's well worth the money if you put very
many fittings together, stabbing your fingers with little stainless
wires gets old after a while.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">I
used one of the Summit -6 to 1/8 fuel pressure gauge fittings with a
little fuel pressure gauge I had sitting in my tool box so that I could
keep an eye on fuel pressure.</span><br />
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D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-45792042582402700472013-09-18T23:35:00.000-07:002013-09-18T23:35:23.276-07:00Front Suspension - SPL Tension Rods and Tein Hard Rods<span style="color: #999999;">While having everything out, I've cleaned up the suspension. The tie rod ends and ball joints were old and tired with torn boots and were develop some play and just looked like they were past their prime, those were removed in favor of Tein hard rods. I replaced the front lower control arms with stock replacements from MOOG. The arms feel thick and solid like the OEM originals and the grease zerk fittings are a nice plus for servicability. The OEM tension rods were so stuck that I had to cut them out, those were pitched for some nice adjustable SPL Parts Titanium Tension Arms. </span><span style="color: #999999;"><span style="color: #999999;"> While I was at it, I also picked up some Rust Olem satin bronze metallic paint, sand blasted and repainted my front knuckles.</span> </span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">When sandblasting the knucles I made sure to duct tape the spindle surface and block off the tapered holes to protect the smooth machined surfaces of the knuckle. Then I finished cleaning them with a wire brush and laquer thinner to prep them for paint. I masked off the same surfaces again for paint along with the brake caliper mounting surfaces.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">There are the nice SPL tension rods,the new blue titanium hardware they send them with really sets them off.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">There it is back together with my Cusco Zero2-R coils. I cleaned them up to look nice, but I'm not sure how much longer I will run them. I picked them up used from Ebay, they've handled really nice since I set them up but they are starting to leak a little. I don't think the previous owner's settings did them any favors, they came preloaded over an inch and the spring would bottom out on the smallest of bumps, I seriously thought my dash was going to pop out or my windshield was going to break, it was brutal. I'm guessing they didn't like the 5&7K spring rates. When these give up I'm probably going to be shopping for some new coils, I'm leaning towards Fortune Auto 500's at the moment.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">New Tein hard tie rods and new boots to go with them.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">I sub assembled and loosely set the lengths of the tie rods before installing them.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">Two wrenches really helped the process of removing the old inner tie rods. I used a 1-1/4" on the tie rod, not quite the right size, but it worked (30mm probably is closer) and I think it was a 13/16 to help keep the rack from twisting in its mounts and just to support it a little more to avoid damage.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">I went ahead and used the supplied spacers with the Teins, since the spacer eliminates the OEM lock plate I used Locktite Red high strength thread locker. Hopefully I never need to take them off, but it should keep them from removing themselves at an inopportune time, like when I'm driving the car on the highway.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_220435_zps20edf83d.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130914_220435_zps20edf83d.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20New%20Front%20Suspension/20130914_220435_zps20edf83d.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">If you look closely at the steering rack shaft you can see the small flats that you can use to help support it. The drivers side really needed it, it looked like there was already thread locker on that side and the wrench turned extremely hard all the way out, with no damaged threads (checked that first)</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">I had to take a picture of the underbody, who knows how long it will stay that clean.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">Through this process I've either painted or replaced everything rusty that I've came across, these brake line securing tabs as well.</span></div>
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D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-54112277314349375402013-09-17T22:58:00.000-07:002013-09-17T22:58:13.133-07:00Dropping the Engine Back In (Hopefully the last time for a while)<b><span style="color: #999999;">I finally put the engine back in. It was pretty drama free, a little nerve racking with the fresh powder on the cross member and fresh paint on the firewall but there really weren't too many problems, aside from needing to get a bigger hammer because the tunnel wasn't beaten in far enough. A reminder for others, make sure to really beat the tunnel in for clearance.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_000957_zps4256faa7.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130902_000957_zps4256faa7.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130902_000957_zps4256faa7.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">I even got my wife in on the action this time. She was such a good sport, she took the usual first timer spot under the car to guide the tranny into the tunnel.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130904_211649_zps40415d29.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130904_211649_zps40415d29.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20LS1%20Back%20In/20130904_211649_zps40415d29.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">If you want to run no accessories and a 10% under drive pulley like I did, these are the parts you need to do it. You have to swap the smooth idler pulley on the alternator for a ribbed idler (same one used on the tensioner) Dayco p/n 89015. The belt that fit the best was a Dayco p/n 5060540 54" - 6 rib.</span></b></td></tr>
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D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-6913031867200677562013-09-17T22:44:00.000-07:002013-09-17T22:44:26.056-07:00Manual Brakes and NiCopp lines<span style="color: #999999;"><b>After seeing some of the brake booster delete kits I stated weighing the option. I was really interested in the Chase Bays kit, because its one of the more widely used kits in the 240sx world. However after some research I decided that running a single circuit master cylinder for brakes wasn't something that I would do. So I decided I would make my own, along with a pedal with an increased leverage ratio to hopefully make my manual brake conversion more liveable. The end goal is a firm pedal with good modulation, hopefully without having to go too aggressive on the brake pad compound.</b></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_220146_zps37bd580d.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130823_220146_zps37bd580d.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_220146_zps37bd580d.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>Made two of the master cylinder adapter plates in the CNC with some assistance, it was pretty exciting to push that green button after the program was made.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_171723_zps1df9ac97.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130823_171723_zps1df9ac97.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_171723_zps1df9ac97.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>Facing my new brake pedal pivot to length in the lathe.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_191340_zps71e1bd75.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130823_191340_zps71e1bd75.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_191340_zps71e1bd75.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>Brake pedal with a new pivot added 1" below the factory pivot</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_194339_zpsb12c1d10.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130823_194339_zpsb12c1d10.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_194339_zpsb12c1d10.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>We added another hole in the brake bracket as well to keep the same pedal height, keeping the brake push rod going out the same hole in the firewall.</b></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_203934_zpsb81c04fe.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130823_203934_zpsb81c04fe.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_203934_zpsb81c04fe.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>Finished modified pedal on the bottom, the finished product should have about a 5.5:1 pedal ratio in place of the stock 4:1 for boosted brakes. That places my modified pedal right about in the middle of standard car manual brake pedals (5-6:1 ratio).</b></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130823_224236_zpsee085d5a.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130823_224236_zpsee085d5a.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130823_224236_zpsee085d5a.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>My super fancy brake push rod. I might make something a little prettier without the length adjustment after some testing.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130827_211327_zps0050e6cd.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130827_211327_zps0050e6cd.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130827_211327_zps0050e6cd.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>I added some stainless steel M8 thread inserts into the master cylinder adapter to make it easier to remove the master cylinder so I can make brake rod adjustments without too much drama while setting things up.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><b>For the brake lines I ran all new. I chose NiCopp for the corrosion resistance and formability. NiCopp lines are supposed to combine the corrosion resistance of stainless with easier forming than mild steel. Its a Nickel, Copper alloy, and somehow you gain resistance to fatigue and work hardening from the Nickel in the alloy over plain Copper (which is a no no in automotive braking systems). The lines in a 240 are 3/16" OD with M10 x 1.0 inverted flare fittings. The NiCopp bent surprisingly easy, I used a basic bend tool and some bend pliers for some of the tighter stuff and occasionally a 3/8 socket.</b></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130827_211243_zpsa013556f.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130827_211243_zpsa013556f.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130827_211243_zpsa013556f.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>The factory master cylinder doesn't have a boot since it typically goes on the front of a brake booster. Since its going to be poking through the firewall right above my feet now it probably should have one.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130826_194252_zps39e69ba3.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130826_194252_zps39e69ba3.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130826_194252_zps39e69ba3.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>To mount the brake lines to the firewall I'm using some Earl's aluminum line clamps. I drilled the threads out of a couple so that I could run the bolt through to some closed end rivnuts I installed into the firewall.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130828_214145_zps96a9a157.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130828_214145_zps96a9a157.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130828_214145_zps96a9a157.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>I equally spaced two #10-32 rivnuts into the firewall just below the pinch seam for a nice low profile clean place to run the brake lines.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #999999;"><b><br /></b></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Brakes/20130831_224837_zpsdb0314a6.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130831_224837_zpsdb0314a6.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Brakes/20130831_224837_zpsdb0314a6.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #999999;"><b>Nice, new, shiny NiCopp brake lines all bent up.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-36850448335107172502013-09-17T21:45:00.002-07:002013-09-17T21:45:52.799-07:00Paint the engine bay and bedline the wheel wells.<b><span style="color: #999999;">As I've been going through this project I've been getting more and more particular. I always like to do things right, but after a project takes as long as this one has, I want everything I've touched thus far to be as good as I can get it. I pulled the entire front end apart as far as it would go.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_222408_zpsfe57145f.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121211_222408_zpsfe57145f.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_222408_zpsfe57145f.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_223149_zps701e527c.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121211_223149_zps701e527c.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_223149_zps701e527c.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_233150_zpsc6b2fc97.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121211_233150_zpsc6b2fc97.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20121211_233150_zpsc6b2fc97.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_165821_zpsdda976e3.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130816_165821_zpsdda976e3.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_165821_zpsdda976e3.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">Sent the front cross member and tension rod bracket out for powder coat, went with a gloss jdm charcoal</span></b></td></tr>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_222754_zpsfee0cc2e.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130816_222754_zpsfee0cc2e.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130816_222754_zpsfee0cc2e.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130817_002609_zpse4e96a20.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130817_002609_zpse4e96a20.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130817_002609_zpse4e96a20.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_122913_zps4a1ce66c.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130818_122913_zps4a1ce66c.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_122913_zps4a1ce66c.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">Wrapped it up in its own cocoon</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180901_zps77de93ff.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130818_180901_zps77de93ff.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180901_zps77de93ff.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">I did two coats of a 2k high build primer, if I were to do it again, I would have done 3 or 4, I expected the paint to be thicker and hide better, but all and all it looks pretty decent for an engine bay.</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180852_zps01027a59.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130818_180852_zps01027a59.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_180852_zps01027a59.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212247_zps3a613013.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130818_212247_zps3a613013.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212247_zps3a613013.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212348_zps94c6d94f.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130818_212348_zps94c6d94f.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Engine%20Bay%20Paint/20130818_212348_zps94c6d94f.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">I used a 2k semi gloss black urethane paint for my paint for good durability.</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-24193098112345215952013-09-17T21:26:00.002-07:002013-09-17T21:47:40.585-07:00Fix that Rust<b><span style="color: #999999;">After finding the rust in the rails I took a long break from the project (hence no updates). Needed to decide if the project was still worth it and was contemplating a new shell. Long story short, I decided to stay the course. It was a lot of work. I've been learning to TIG weld through this build so the welds are far from perfect asthetically, but I expect them to hold well.</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #999999;"><span style="background-color: black;"><br /></span></span></b>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130713_143956_zps50cbf497.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130713_143956_zps50cbf497.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130713_143956_zps50cbf497.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">The passenger side was the worst by far, apparently rust stated underneath the undercoating on the firewall along with the frame rail and where moisture gets trapped at the brake line holder</span></b></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234602_zps8cd82c4d.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130717_234602_zps8cd82c4d.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234602_zps8cd82c4d.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">I welded in spots to give the patch panel some extra bite along with welding around the perimiter</span></b></td></tr>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><span style="background-color: black;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234633_zps2cecc583.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130717_234633_zps2cecc583.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130717_234633_zps2cecc583.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><span style="background-color: black;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130719_010437_zpscca8f76a.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130719_010437_zpscca8f76a.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130719_010437_zpscca8f76a.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130720_181908_zpsdf9a6750.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130720_181908_zpsdf9a6750.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130720_181908_zpsdf9a6750.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">Passenger side after completion</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130722_235826_zps6c094a99.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130722_235826_zps6c094a99.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130722_235826_zps6c094a99.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">On the drivers side I tried to make the repair more flush with less overlap</span></b></td></tr>
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<b><span style="color: #999999;"><span style="background-color: black;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130727_215210_zps7945a9ac.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130727_215210_zps7945a9ac.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130727_215210_zps7945a9ac.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130730_003248_zpsde6b9b8d.jpg.html" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20130730_003248_zpsde6b9b8d.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/240%20Rail%20Repair/20130730_003248_zpsde6b9b8d.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></b></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #999999;">While I was welding things, I made saddle gussets for my front "power brace"</span></b></td></tr>
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D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-7027945150160950822012-12-14T22:46:00.000-08:002013-09-18T22:51:11.331-07:00Mcleod Mag Force Twin Disc Clutch Install<span style="color: #999999;">The McLeod Mag Force Twin is a seriously beautiful piece, its really sad that it has to be buried behind a bellhousing. I bought it to run it though so it has to go in. This being a twin its a little different from other clutch installations I have experienced. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215406.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121125_215406.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215406.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">First you pop off the pressure plate to see the ceramic pucked solid hub disc that's backed up by a floating pin drive center disc. I chose the floating center disc based on recommendations that it would drag less as the clutch begins to wear, allowing me a slightly longer interval for re-shimming the clutch.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215446.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121125_215446.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215446.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">On top of the drive pins there are shim stacks calibrated from the factory for proper finger height on the clutch diaphragm. As the clutch wears, shims will be removed until either one of the plates are out of spec or the clutch is worn or damaged to the point where it needs to go back to McLeod for a full rebuild.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215414.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121125_215414.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215414.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">I have the strapped pressure plate to keep some of the noise down.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215720.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121125_215720.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121125_215720.jpg" width="320" /> </a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">I'm using ARP pro series 12pt flywheel bolts to protect the investment p/n 330-2802</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121129_220446.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121129_220446.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121129_220446.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">Using the standard clutch alignment tool this is all the further the transmission would engage, I thought I could get away with it, but I no matter what I tried I couldn't get it any closer than the last inch. Finally I broke down and bought the Quarter Master 1-5/32" x 26 spline alignment tool. Its under $50 and well worth it to just go ahead and get it if you're going to install a multi-plate clutch.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_212359.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121204_212359.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_212359.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_205945.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo 20121204_205945.jpg" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Clutch%20Work/20121204_205945.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-64686347698406761782012-12-04T22:28:00.000-08:002012-12-04T22:29:44.234-08:00Engine Bay Clean Up<span style="color: #666666;">Working on a project there are always things that pop up and catch you attention. This is one of them.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152209.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152209.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Excuse the blurry picture, but you get the idea. There was rust in the former home of the battery tray, an intercooler pipe hole that's too small and in the wrong location for the intake, holes from drilled spot welds, and provisions for a washer fluid tank that's been out of the car for nearly 10 years now. My first problem was no press brake to bend the radius on the panel. So I made a quick and dirty rail for the hydraulic press at work.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121116_182511.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121116_182511.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">I used this in conjunction with a piece of 1-1/4" round stock to make a nice radiused corner. Then used my handy dandy card board templates to make my patch panel out of 22ga sheet metal, the same thickness as the original piece.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152234.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_152234.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_214242.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121118_214242.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">After making the panel I cleco pinned and butt weld clamped it in place for weld.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121120_215342.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121120_215342.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Also, I patched some strut tower rust that I had previously repaired with bondo and stitch welded the front of the car. I figured that with the extra torque the LS will provide the front of this car will need all the help it can get. The first steps to stitch welding are scraping out the seam sealer, then wire brush the remaining sealer out.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184610.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121110_184610.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Stitch welding is a serious pain, no matter how much you think you've thoroughly cleaned all the bits of rust and seam sealer there will still be some in there. Every time you hit some seam sealer, dirt or rust and pull it into the puddle it burns and makes the puddle pop. You'll have a good run for a few stitches then a few that are terrible where you keep cleaning and trying to get a good weld.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;">A much easier part was making at attaching subframe rail caps. I plasma cut them then used the dimple die to make the holes look clean and tig welded them in place.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121125_133745.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121125_133745.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">The next step will be to repair some rust holes I discovered in the frame rails (frail rails)</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121204_213740.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Sheet%20Metal%20Work/20121204_213740.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-35343538247220977262012-12-04T21:21:00.001-08:002012-12-04T21:21:22.449-08:00All Dressed Up With No Where to Go<span style="color: #999999;">So, I'm finally getting back in the swing of working on the car and updating the blog. I had a busy summer and fall with long work hours, mountain biking and spending time with the family. I visited <a href="http://www.panaceapowder.com/" target="_blank">Panacea Powder Coating </a>again and had them coat my timing cover and valve covers. I finally settled on a hammertone bronze color similar to my rims for the parts.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/2012-12-01164111engine.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="320" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/2012-12-01164111engine.jpg" width="318" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">While installing the timing cover I installed the ATI Super Damper. I chose ATI p/n <a href="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917277" target="_blank">917277</a>, It's a 10% under drive without an air conditioning pulley and SFI approval. No need for A/C since I removed the evaporator from under the dash along with the rest of the system. I wanted an under drive and the ATI seemed to be the best insurance for my engine while providing under drive.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #999999;"><a href="http://s1183.beta.photobucket.com/user/redsand481/media/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/20121125_133305.jpg.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/Engine%20Dress%20Up/20121125_133305.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">I've also added -8 AN heater fittings to the water pump. The original stainless steel fittings were pretty difficult to remove. I tried twisting them with a pipe wrench, wishful thinking that they might just forcefully twist out, but no luck there. I ended up up supporting them with a board to protect the waterpump, smashing in one side with a chisel to collapse it, taking pressure off the sides then they popped right out. After they came out it was just a matter of tapping the holes they're already the correct size, the small side with a 3/8 npt and the larger with a 1/2 npt.</span><br />
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D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-32572171553754121752012-07-07T01:12:00.001-07:002012-07-07T01:12:29.420-07:00Cams and Stuff<div style="color: #999999;">
After the headers came out for ceramic coating, the engine went on the stand where I promptly tore it down.</div>
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The engine had carbon headgaskets, which are nasty. I bought a plastic scraper and some permatex gasket remover and went to town on all the crap they left behind. To get all the left over residue off, I went over the surface with a nylon scotchbrite pad (no aluminum oxide) until all the remaining gasket was removed. After that I used some 2500 grit sandpaper to get the final finish, to give the cometic headgaskets a good sealing surface. Then I cleaned everything over and over again and checked all the surfaces for dirt with my fingertips and then cleaned some more. You can never be too clean when you open an engine. All and all the cleaning took about 3 hours per side.</div>
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Then I unboxed all the goodness that the fedex and ups guys had delivered.</div>
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Here's the grocery list from above:</div>
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- Cometic .040 MLS Headgaskets</div>
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- LS6 Valley cover, for its improved PCV system</div>
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- LS2 Lifter Guides</div>
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- LS7 Lifters</div>
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- GMPP Heavy Duty Timing Chain </div>
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- Melling High Volume Oil Pump</div>
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- GM camshaft install gasket kit</div>
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- ARP Headbolts</div>
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- ARP Camshaft Bolts</div>
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- ARP Cam Retainer Bolts</div>
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- Lingenfelter GT2-3 Cam</div>
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- Lingenfelter LS9 Blue Springs (hand checked for lift to work with the cam)</div>
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Check out the difference between the original chain and the heavy duty one, can you tell which one is which? I consider it cheap insurance when getting heavier valve springs, the HD chain has some serious beef to the side plates compared to the original part.</div>
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Also the melling high volume oil pump is more of a preventative maintenance item as well. Its the part number 10296. It comes with the red high pressure spring installed, which I plan to switch out for the blue standard pressure spring. I suspect that the increased volume alone will try to drain the pan, so I'm at least going to start with a little less pressure.</div>
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The cam install was pretty uneventful. I discovered that cams are very sharp while I was cleaning it with a bunch of little paper cut like cuts on my hands that I discovered when hosing it down with brake cleaner. I then used some Lucas Oil Assembly Lube and slid the cam into place. Overhead cams (like the SR20DET) are way easier to install, but all and all it wasn't bad. You just have to be patient and careful so that you don't damage the bearings or get it stuck.
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0266.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0266.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #999999;">Afterwards I moved on to the valve springs. I considered getting a loaner tool, but ended up just buying one specifically made for the job instead. I love new tools anyways. I got the Trick Flow Specialties 90306 from Summit, this tool made the valve spring change simple and quick, its definitely a quality tool</span>.
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=TFS-90307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="320" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/TFS-90307.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0272.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0272.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: #999999;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While I was in there I found something interesting, my 799 heads have what looks like hollow exhaust valves and the intake valve is black oxided, I'm not quite sure what to make of it.</td></tr>
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<tr style="color: #999999;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super easy, just turn the nut down and pull the locks, I had lost my magnet and there was enough room that I could remove and install them with my fingertips fairly easily.</td></tr>
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After I finished with that I installed and torqued down the heads.
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To get torque specs, patterns, and specific instructions, when guidance was needed, I used these references. The first is free information over the web which is pretty good, and the second is a book I purchased which had great, in depth explanations and some really good information in general.</div>
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<a href="http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2" target="_blank">F-Body Heads / Cam Swap on LS1 How To</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/LS-Series-Engines-Motorbooks-Workshop-ebook/dp/B004QTPWWW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341648384&sr=8-2&keywords=how+to+build+and+modify+gm+ls-series+engines" style="color: #999999;" target="_blank">How to Build and Modify GM LS Series Engines - Joseph Potak (Kindle Edition)</a>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-63667721540925598152012-07-06T23:34:00.001-07:002012-07-06T23:39:58.570-07:00Ceramic Coated<div style="color: #999999;">
I did the final test fit on the headers after Dan and guys at <a href="http://advancedchassisllc.net/">Advanced Chassis</a> welded the tubes to the flanges, I couldn't be too careful before ceramic coating. Once that coating is on, its on there and won't come off easily. As always they did a great job and everything came out perfect. They even modified a tube slightly for increased steering clearance. For the ceramic coating I used <a href="http://www.panaceapowder.com/">Panacea Powder Coating</a>, where Mike took excellent care of my headers. Mike showed me a color called blue titanium on his own classic hotrod and I went with his recommendation. The headers turned out awesome. Pictures are hard to do the color justice, its a matte charcoal grey color with a little blue metallic, it makes for a really clean look.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=100_9779.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9779.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-91572280029942770722012-06-14T22:38:00.001-07:002012-06-14T22:38:40.452-07:00Clutch Selection<div style="color: #999999;">
The clutch decision was a big one for me and one that I didn't take lightly. The clutch can have a huge effect on how the car drives. My final decision was to go light to lessen the hit on the tires and let the engine rev faster for the approximately 2600lb car. First I was going towards a 7.25" racing clutch but after seeing a lot of you tube videos with extremely jumpy, light switch like clutches and reading manufacturers recommendations to not even drive cars onto the trailer with them I got the idea that it was a little more aggressive than I want to deal with. Dru Nichols (SicBastard on Zilvia.net) compiled some great information on moment of inertia of clutch assemblies. For those of you not familiar with the term or the concept, moment of inertia in context of a clutch is the idea that the same weight at the same rpm has more energy the further it is placed from its axis of rotation. A good example is a baseball on a string, a baseball on a 2 foot string rotating at 100rpm is only going about 7mph, but the same baseball on a 17 foot string at the same 100rpm is going about 60mph. Enough about the physics and back to the clutches.</div>
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Tilton Clutch Assemblies MOI (lb-in^2)</div>
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Includes: Clutch cover with diaphragm spring, pressure plates and floater plate(s)</div>
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(add 66 MOI and 2.5# to include the button</div>
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(add 87 MOI and 3.4# to include a Sonic ultra-lightweight flexplate)</div>
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13 4.4” Tilton carbon carbon 4 disc</div>
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21.4 5.5” Tilton 1 disc cerametallic</div>
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29.4 5.5” Tilton 2 disc sintered metallic (6#)</div>
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32.2 5.5” Tilton 2 disc cerametallic</div>
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52.4 7.25” Tilton 1 disc cerametallic</div>
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76.3 7.25” Tilton 2 disc cerametallic</div>
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89.6 7.25” Tilton 3 disc sintered metallic (10.2#)</div>
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99 8.5” Tilton 1 disc cerametallic</div>
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100.2 7.25” Tilton 3 disc cerametallic</div>
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158 8.5” Tilton 2 disc cerametallic</div>
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337 9.0” Mantic street dual sprung clutch (33.8#) cool set up!</div>
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>3200 11.5"? Stock LS2 flywheel and clutch (52#)</div>
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(MOI list thanks to Dru Nichols MD)</div>
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I also put together the following list of weights without MOI with a lot of google searches for light weight clutch assemblies for the LS series engines. </div>
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McLeod RST 9-11/16 dia. w/Aluminum Flywheel 560530 (36#)-w/13.5# flywheel</div>
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McLeod Mag Force 8" dia twin Assembly (Approx 25#, Goes on the scale tomorrow)</div>
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Spec Lightweight flywheel w/Al PP Option 11-1/2 dia. (33.4#) (McLeod also offers a similar set-up if you call them)</div>
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RPS Street Twin 1/2 Carbon (40#)</div>
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RPS Street Twin Full Carbon (36#)</div>
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RPS Billet Carbon Street Twin w/Steel Flywheel (32#)</div>
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RPS Billet Carbon Street Twin w/Al Flywheel (25#)</div>
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After talking with Lee at McLeod clutch and Scott at <a href="http://www.spdmetalworks.com/">SPD Metalworks</a> I went with the Mag Force twin. They put together a custom assembly based on the pin drive Mag Force, with a strap drive pressure plate, and ceramic discs.</div>
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Here's a video for an example of how I expect it to rev.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/VXcMR-ejxsU?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<br />D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-55829137291269148972012-04-25T22:13:00.000-07:002012-04-25T22:13:19.627-07:00Patch Panel<div style="color: #999999;">
In between the header fabrication I made a little patch panel for the front core support and some tension rod bracket re-inforcements. I had a little fun with a dimple die while I was at it. I made the panels out of 16ga steel so they would be strong since the front core ties the two frame/unibody rails together. When welding in the panel I decided to try a product I hadn't before. I got a weld through primer, I was a little reluctant to paint where I was about to weld, but that's how its advertised to work. I sprayed the back side of the panel and anywhere I thought I might have trouble spraying after it was welded together. My reluctance seemed to be correct, where ever the primer was my weld didn't want to penetrate until I had it all burnt away.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0199.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0199.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really happy with how the dimple die worked</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This part goes in the bottom of the tension rod bracket as a gusset. I also made a cross bar like the Nismo power brace</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0198.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0198.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I had to add a couple dimpled holes where they might be visible, when the car is together.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0208.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0208.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I tried out weld through primer, it was more of a burn it away with the mig, then weld process. I wasn't impressed.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #999999;">Also I received a call from Lingenfelter's this week, my valve springs finally came in. I'm pumped, that means I get to take the drive to Decatur, IN and pick up my GT 2-3 cam, valve springs, and Cometic .040 head gaskets. The remainder of parts for the final assembly of the engine.</span>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-76726538047529246982012-04-25T21:41:00.002-07:002012-04-25T21:41:22.178-07:00Long Time No Posts<div style="color: #999999;">
I haven't posted anything for quite some time now. I had professional help lined up to help mock up the passenger side but he ended up being too busy, so that was a minor set back. I guess the plus side to that is that I still can say that I made them to my design, with lots of helping hands, literally, its nearly impossible to hold all of those tubes into position alone. I wanted to run all the tubes to one side or the other of the steering shaft, but the collectors wouldn't fit through and it wasn't working for the equal length thing either. I ended up running the front two cylinders inboard, and the rear two outboard kind of like the passenger side.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0212.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0212.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This picture makes me wish I would have taken a picture of the headers outside of the car, the front two cylinders looked like snakes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both sides outside of the car.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=100_9537.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/100_9537.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the steering gap, I'm hoping its enough, but if I have any problems I'm just going to stiffer motor mounts.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I still need to check the fit one last time on the car before the final weld on the flanges, everything should be good, but once its tig welded all the way around its a lot harder to go back.</div>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-68298868819693963532012-02-19T20:40:00.000-08:002012-04-25T22:23:09.893-07:00Equal Length Long Tube Headers Continued<div style="color: #cccccc;">
So, building motor mounts to stuff a ls1 into a 240sx seemed like a challenge, but it was actually a breeze compared to building headers and attempting to make the tubes equal length. My first length attempt was 32" with the collector just behind the firewall, to maximize ground clearance, it worked great for the two cylinders to the front of the engine, but not so well when it came to the back two, I had to pick one or the other to make the 32" length, then the one that didn't get the length was going to be 4-5 inches shorter which just wasn't going to work. So I went back to the drawing board and came up with some creative tube arrangement to shorten all of the tubes to 28" the shorter end of the recommended length from cone engineering.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0996.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0996.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="color: #cccccc; text-align: center;">Notice the front most tube, its tucked as tight to the block as I could get it and actually enters the collector above the next tube behind it to make it possible to make these headers equal length.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I decided to tuck the front most tube in very close to the block and take the straightest path possible towards the collector, inserting it into the upper opening (rather than the lower opening where it would typically go), tucking the second tube from the front underneath it. With this tangled tube arrangement, I was able to get the first three cylinders within 1/2" of length of each other and the last one within 2", this is not perfect equal length, but I think it will do. I could have squeezed a little more length to get it closer to the 28" goal, but I would have had to have much more aggressive angles, which didn't seem worth it in terms of loss of flow. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0995.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0995.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Front View</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0997.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0997.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Here's the underside view, there's another new tool under there, an adjustable V-channeled (angle iron) tube tube stand. Between this and the collector holder these are some massively helpful tools. I've built these with a lot of inspiration from Advanced Chassis's shop tools.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #cccccc;">The passenger side is now ready for tig welding. The driver side is coming up, so its decision time, I wanted to make it in such a way that it could be installed without removing the steering shaft, but with the difficulty of the passenger side I'm not sure if that will be a possibility.</span>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-5814110952980057102012-01-29T01:00:00.000-08:002012-04-25T22:22:33.647-07:00Equal Length Long Tube Headers in a S13<div style="color: #cccccc;">
My current project on this build is attempting to make a set of long tube headers. I started with a 1-3/4" OD long tube header kit from Summit Racing, a set of 3/8" LS1 flanges and two 180 degree J-bends from Jegs. The long tube header kit has tubes that are bent for a small block, probably to go in something pretty large, like a monster truck, because when I placed one of the pipes in the 240 it hung under the car about 2". For this project I'm not sure if the kit was the way to go, but for about $100, after cutting the tubes up, I have a lot of bends to work with. Also I was unimpressed by the fit of the collectors so I purchased a set of Megs formed merge collectors and merge bullets, these are beautiful pieces. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0181.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0181.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: #cccccc;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Megs Merge Bullets after welding.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #999999;"> </span><span style="color: #cccccc;">I was happy that I had called them they pointed me in the right direction for my power goals and my usage of the car. As a result I am using smaller than typical collectors and going with a 2-1/2", the same size as my Y-pipe. But with the tighter collectors I am going to have to make sure to have a good equal length design for my header tubes. So far this has been extremely challenging. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #cccccc;">Update: I've made a new tool tonight that should help ease the process a little. I made and adjustable collector holder to hold the header collector in position.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #cccccc;">To be continued....pictures coming</span>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-87691976944761892332012-01-29T00:12:00.000-08:002012-02-11T22:57:22.221-08:00Going In<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0169.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0169.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: #cccccc;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That engine is going in this car!</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #cccccc;">This year I gave myself an early Christmas present. I took some time, dropped the engine in and fabricated a set of motor mounts and a transmission cross member. I'm trying to take a different approach, with the LS1 sitting on my Nismo motor mounts. I was able to find some of the important dimensions searching the forums to get a good base line and had some plates laser cut for my mounts.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0173.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0173.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">The LS1 went in pretty smoothly, but it had to come right back out.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0174.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0174.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">We needed to do some more pounding in the tunnel, in a band from 4-6 inches in front of the pinch weld you have to knock it in at least an inch, it doesn't sound like a lot, but it takes some serious pounding to get there. That's my friend Kurt in the tunnel, we were taking turns with the hammer.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Finally after getting savage on the tunnel with a compthane sledge hammer there was enough room to mount the engine where I wanted it.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0990.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0990.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">There is the passenger side motor mount, its just tacked for the time being and there will be gussets if I stay with the tube design. I have the engine situated with the sump of the oil pan about 1/4" above the bottom of the cross member which should offer it some protection against bottoming out. Its about 1/8" forward of the cross member, in attempt to get it as far back as possible. The biggest limiting factors in getting the engine low and back in a 240 are the heater core outlets if you want to keep heat (in NE Indiana its a necessity at least for the defrost) and the massive T56 bellhousing.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #cccccc;">Drivers side, this side is going to be a nightmare when building headers.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0843-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0843-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="color: #cccccc;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just in case you were wondering why the front looked so open in the other pictures, I cut the front core support and it is now a bolt in piece. This is nearly a necessity if you want to make your own mounts and makes the engine go in and out a lot faster and easier</td></tr>
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<br />D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-19587035640316067402012-01-28T23:33:00.000-08:002012-01-28T23:37:30.665-08:00The Engine and Clutch<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0163.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2002 LS1 with Fueled Performance Moroso Oil Pan</td></tr>
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The engine set-up is:</div>
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2002 LS1</div>
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799 Heads</div>
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LS6 Intake Manifold</div>
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Thin Cometic Head Gaskets for 11:1 compression</div>
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ARP Head Bolts </div>
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LPE GT2-3 Cam</div>
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LPE Matched LS9 Springs</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=ls1Stand.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/ls1Stand.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0882.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMG_0882.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=IMAG0145.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/IMAG0145.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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I haven't determined which clutch I want to use yet. I have a quartermaster twin racing clutch I was considering using, but I have decided that it was a little more aggressive than I wanted to deal with. I working on finding a good, low mass alternative without going quite so extreme.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/?action=view&current=QuarterMaster725.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/New%20Project/QuarterMaster725.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<br />D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-39273593890609365562012-01-28T00:01:00.000-08:002012-01-28T23:36:59.463-08:00Decisions and Finally Picking Up an Engine<br />
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/?action=view&current=IMAG0049.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/IMAG0049.jpg" width="320" /> </a><br />
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This summer I began the tear down. What started as a quick clean up job became much more.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/SR20DET%20Parts/?action=view&current=IMG_0807.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="213" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/SR20DET%20Parts/IMG_0807.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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There was scoring in the cylinders, a broken section of cylinder sleeve and one SR20DE rod that didn't belong, which I'm sure was doing great things for the balanced rotating assembly. The LS1 decision caused a few sleepless nights, I loved making power with the disco potato boosted SR and the insane surge as it rushed up to 18psi. The LS just seemed like a crime against nature, so much of what I had done to the car was to make it more like the Japanese Nissan Silvia and I was going to tear its 2.0 liter turbo charged soul out, sell it all for parts and replace it with American iron....er aluminum. The decision finally just came down to logic, the car typically was spending more time apart than together, no fault of the engine itself, but I just couldn't build the same thing again, and every mod done to the car was to make more power and to keep it lower in the revs to make it more responsive. The next natural progression was to use a v8 that wouldn't have to breathe hard for my modest power goals (375-390whp)</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Locating an Engine</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I started with buying an engine off of Ebay from some guy in Texas. He seemed like a nice enough guy until about a month later when I was still getting excuses on where my engine was and couldn't seem to give me a straight answer on when it would ship. I called him and he claimed that he didn't have the engine or the money and that some friend of his did. Finally I had enough and luckily through paypal I was able to get my money back</span>. Round two: I discovered Search Tempest and searched a 150 mile radius on Craigslist and found a few engines, I finally found one in Dayton. Low mileage from a 2002 WS6, with a T56, it came with the improved LS6 intake, I was happy with my find.</div>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3588702758351486765.post-42575199361504493232012-01-26T23:48:00.000-08:002012-01-28T23:35:52.638-08:00Background<div style="color: #cccccc;">
This Blog is about my ongoing build of my LS1 powered 240sx. For those of you who don't know me I work at <a href="http://www.antwerptool.com/">Antwerp Tool Die & Engineering</a> we make custom parts and equipment for primarily industrial customers, but the shops capabilities are also a huge help in my build. I am also fortunate to have the assistance of our neighbors at <a href="http://advancedchassisllc.net/">Advanced Chassis</a> where they build highly competitive drag cars, pulling tractors, and custom headers.</div>
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My build started in 2002 when I bought a total basket case of a 240sx off ebay with the intentions of swapping in a SR20DET</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/2002%20240sx/?action=view&current=LSIDE---1.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/2002%20240sx/LSIDE---1.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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Yes, it was ugly, but I saw the potential. Over the next year I got my parts list together and put the SR in the car, leaving it a mostly untouched bolt on SR swap.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/First%20Install/?action=view&current=light.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="239" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/First%20Install/light.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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In the spring of '04 after about a year of fair weather driving I decided it was time to dig in and take care of the SR20 timing chain slap. When I found some damage inside.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Engine%20Rebuild/?action=view&current=badpiston.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="239" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Engine%20Rebuild/badpiston.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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I spark plug had came apart at some point in the engine's life and slammed around inside damaging a piston and bending some valves. So I had the engine rebuilt, and added forged pistons, upgraded valve springs, ti retainers and a larger turbo among other things, while you're in there might as well right...</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Engine%20Rebuild/?action=view&current=incar02.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="239" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Engine%20Rebuild/incar02.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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I drove it around as a sleeper for a year then jumped into the body and paint work in 2005.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Body%20Work/?action=view&current=widerear02.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="239" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Body%20Work/widerear02.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Body%20Work/?action=view&current=textmodified.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="239" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Body%20Work/textmodified.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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I went with a d-drug (origin) wide body kit, with bomex lowers and a text modified aero front bumper. Then painted it all black with a lot of assistance.</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Body%20Work/?action=view&current=mepainting.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="320" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Body%20Work/mepainting.jpg" width="240" /></a>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/?action=view&current=dside01.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="239" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/dside01.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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Then my nice almost new SR decided to self destruct shortly after I painted the car .</div>
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<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Thrown%20Rod/?action=view&current=100_0200.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" height="240" src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x473/redsand481/old%20240sx%20pics/Thrown%20Rod/100_0200.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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There's supposed to be a cap on the end of that rod...and its not supposed to be smashed into the side of the block. Apparently my short block was assembled on a Friday afternoon at the engine machine shop I used, I sent it back to them, they admitted fault in the matter and "fixed" it. Which fast forwards me to this summer, when I opened the engine for a little clean up on a small external headgasket leak and found scoring from a dirty build and one SR20DE rod, which was used as a replacement for the DET rod. Needless to say I wasn't too thrilled with the prospect of building the engine again. After a lot of deliberation and some calculations I determined the LS1 swap idea I had been toying with for sometime was the route I wanted to go.</div>D-Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16861227980894102998noreply@blogger.com0