Friday, December 14, 2012

Mcleod Mag Force Twin Disc Clutch Install

The McLeod Mag Force Twin is a seriously beautiful piece, its really sad that it has to be buried behind a bellhousing.  I bought it to run it though so it has to go in.  This being a twin its a little different from other clutch installations I have experienced. 


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First you pop off the pressure plate to see the ceramic pucked solid hub disc that's backed up by a floating pin drive center disc.  I chose the floating center disc based on recommendations that it would drag less as the clutch begins to wear, allowing me a slightly longer interval for re-shimming the clutch.

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On top of the drive pins there are shim stacks calibrated from the factory for proper finger height on the clutch diaphragm.  As the clutch wears, shims will be removed until either one of the plates are out of spec or the clutch is worn or damaged to the point where it needs to go back to McLeod for a full rebuild.

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I have the strapped pressure plate to keep some of the noise down.


I'm using ARP pro series 12pt flywheel bolts to protect the investment p/n 330-2802

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Using the standard clutch alignment tool this is all the further the transmission would engage, I thought I could get away with it, but I no matter what I tried I couldn't get it any closer than the last inch.  Finally I broke down and bought the Quarter Master 1-5/32" x 26 spline alignment tool.  Its under $50 and well worth it to just go ahead and get it if you're going to install a multi-plate clutch.

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Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Engine Bay Clean Up

Working on a project there are always things that pop up and catch you attention.  This is one of them.


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Excuse the blurry picture, but you get the idea.  There was rust in the former home of the battery tray, an intercooler pipe hole that's too small and in the wrong location for the intake, holes from drilled spot welds, and provisions for a washer fluid tank that's been out of the car for nearly 10 years now.  My first problem was no press brake to bend the radius on the panel.  So I made a quick and dirty rail for the hydraulic press at work.


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I used this in conjunction with a piece of 1-1/4" round stock to make a nice radiused corner.  Then used my handy dandy card board templates to make my patch panel out of 22ga sheet metal, the same thickness as the original piece.


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After making the panel I cleco pinned and butt weld clamped it in place for weld.


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Also, I patched some strut tower rust that I had previously repaired with bondo and stitch welded the front of the car.  I figured that with the extra torque the LS will provide the front of this car will need all the help it can get.  The first steps to stitch welding are scraping out the seam sealer, then wire brush the remaining sealer out.
 
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Stitch welding is a serious pain, no matter how much you think you've thoroughly cleaned all the bits of rust and seam sealer there will still be some in there.  Every time you hit some seam sealer, dirt or rust and pull it into the puddle it burns and makes the puddle pop.  You'll have a good run for a few stitches then a few that are terrible where you keep cleaning and trying to get a good weld.

A much easier part was making at attaching subframe rail caps.  I plasma cut them then used the dimple die to make the holes look clean and tig welded them in place.



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The next step will be to repair some rust holes I discovered in the frame rails (frail rails)



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All Dressed Up With No Where to Go

So, I'm finally getting back in the swing of working on the car and updating the blog.  I had a busy summer and fall with long work hours, mountain biking and spending time with the family. I visited Panacea Powder Coating again and had them coat my timing cover and valve covers.  I finally settled on a hammertone bronze color similar to my rims for the parts.


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While installing the timing cover I installed the ATI Super Damper.  I chose ATI p/n 917277, It's a 10% under drive without an air conditioning pulley and SFI approval.  No need for A/C since I removed the evaporator from under the dash along with the rest of the system.  I wanted an under drive and the ATI seemed to be the best insurance for my engine while providing under drive.

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I've also added -8 AN heater fittings to the water pump.  The original stainless steel fittings were pretty difficult to remove.  I tried twisting them with a pipe wrench, wishful thinking that they might just forcefully twist out, but no luck there.  I ended up up supporting them with a board to protect the waterpump, smashing in one side with a chisel to collapse it, taking pressure off the sides then they popped right out.  After they came out it was just a matter of tapping the holes they're already the correct size, the small side with a 3/8 npt and the larger with a 1/2 npt.

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